Wednesday, July 22, 2009
The Real Fashion T.V.
Mercedes-Benz Spring 2010 Fashion Week
We all know that Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week has officially moved to the Lincoln Center, but apparently some fashion designers are still showing at Bryant Park. Derek Lam will be showing at the Tents on September 13th at 11am. Jen Kao, Narciso Rodriguez, Tuleh, Vivienne Tam, and Willow have shown at various gallery spaces over the last several seasons, but are also rumored to be returning to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week along with him. Expect to also see Doo.Ri and Isaac Mizrahi as newcomers. Tory Burch, who has traditionally presented her collection at her West Side showroom, has opted to show her first full-fledged runway show at Bryant Park. Tommy Hilfiger is expected to close the week with a Thursday night show celebrating his 25th anniversary as well as the opening of his new global flagship store at 681 Fifth Avenue. You know Mr. Hilfiger, always ready to copy what others are doing and have already done.
Monday, July 6, 2009
United We Walk, Divided We Don't...
If there is one breakout star from Milan Men's Fashion Week, it's 21-year-old David Agbodji. The French-born model just opened and closed the Calvin Klein show. Though Calvin's shows are known to be on the paler side, they're also a springboard for careers for many models, including Toni Garrn, Addison Gill, and Danny Schwarz. And to see the label embracing Agbodji (and Courtney Taylor, too) could mark the beginning of a new direction for the brand. Perhaps Agbodji will follow in Jourdan Dunn's footsteps (she landed the coveted spot of being the new face of CK by Calvin Klein for fall) and book the Calvin campaign come spring. Here's to hoping.JAMES LIM
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Sunday, March 1, 2009
Betsey Johnson Fall 2009
There were no cartwheels from Betsey Johnson for the first time in what feels like forever…because there was no catwalk. Instead, she invited a smaller crowd to "Betsey Crocker's Kitchen" in her showroom. Yes, folks, the designer who played Peter Pan for Spring reinvented herself as Julia Child. "It's a happy, eating/drinking show with hot waiter guys," Johnson said with typical zaniness.Fashion's most playful designer (who recently sold part of her company and is working with some new people) is having a moment. A new generation, too young to have Betseyed in the nineties, much less the eighties, is discovering her charms. There were rumors aloft that she might do a collaboration with Target, and it's known for sure that she is about to debut an archive collection with Opening Ceremony (the groovy store/showroom/gallery) this fall.
Looking either like extras from a raunchy Ellen von Unwerth shoot or like Cyndi Lauper, the models wore rose prints, lace, and petticoats. Forced to think more commercially, too—as are most of her colleagues—Johnson also showed T-shirts from her soon-to-launch tee line as well as sweat suit separates. "It's artsy yet very real," she said, unsinkably, in a preshow interview. "It's a trip, trip, trip, trip." Some girls, come what may, will always just want to have fun.
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Tracy Reese Fall 2009
Tracy Reese worked a schoolgirl vibe for Fall, adding nerdy specs (one of this season's mini trends), knit caps, and kneesocks to most of her looks. Dresses—fun, flirty, and uncomplicated—came in shades of saffron, mauve, and rose, and could be styled just as easily for a campus as for a beach resort during winter break. That adaptability is one of the strengths of Reese's brand; she may not be forging new territory, but her pieces have a wear-anywhere quality and enough thoughtful details to make them appealing.photo credit:
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2009
The twentysomethings and teens that the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection targets are perfect candidates for the sort of eighties Danceteria redux the designer pulled off so brilliantly at his "big sister" show. After all, they were either in diapers or missed the decade entirely the first time around. But Jacobs took a sharp turn off the island of Manhattan circa 1984 for his kid-sister line.That's not to say that it wasn't fun. It's just that in their hiking boots and woolly socks, striped tights, blanket scarves, and felt Molly Ringwald hats, his models looked more like junior mountaineers than they did club-hoppers. They were the good twins to his signature line's hellions in neon.
As always, it was a mad mix. The components this time around were argyle or intarsia sweaters, belted oversize herringbone sports jackets, baggy wide-wale corduroy shorts, union suits, and a striking red windowpane-plaid dress with pointy shoulders that hinted at the proportions seen on his runway last night. But in the end, vintage-feel shirtwaist dresses, one or two shot through with Lurex, are as rocking as the M.M.J. girl will get this season.
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Diane Von Furstenberg Fall 2009
Sober and serious is one way to respond to the dismal economic outlook, but it's not the Diane Von Furstenberg way. Let other designers lay on the black; she dubbed her Fall collection "Nomad," and sent out a melting pot's worth of fabrics, embroideries, and patterns—from leopards to camouflages to tapestry prints. Von Furstenberg is betting that in "times like these," what a girl really wants is a little pizzazz. But comfort counts, too, so accompanying almost all of her wrap dresses, sacks, bubbles, and tunic-miniskirt combos were generous, slouchy cardigans or cocoon coats, as well as knit tights or leggings—some in leather, others in prints that should come in at a very nice price point. Oh, and don't forget the pompom-covered knit hats. Come evening, though, von Furstenberg left cozy behind, and moved into full-on glamour mode, channeling her own Studio 54 days with the show's closing number, a metallic ombré liquid jersey gown, which appeared on the runway as Diana Ross' hit "Upside Down" played on the soundtrack. The ageless diva was in the audience and gave von Furstenberg a big hug as the designer made her victory lap.photo credit:
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Anna Sui Fall 2009
"If you're going to have a show, then have a show," said Anna Sui, gearing up in her office about a week before her Belle Époque extravaganza. It was obvious how much the designer—happy among her stacks of books, inspiration boards, and piles of 1890's-inspired jewelry from Erickson Beamon—enjoyed the process. Not that Sui wasn't mindful of the economy. She noted that she had made careful fabric choices to ensure that everything remained at a comfortable price point. But Sui, and the girl she dresses, does like to have fun. As front-row guest Taylor Momsen, an ideal member of the Sui demographic, put it: She has "a different kind of spark."What lit Sui's imagination was Proust and the Paris of the Gay Nineties. She looked at pictures of its grandes horizontales and its art, as well as of Yves Saint Laurent's country retreat, where every room was named after a character in Remembrance of Things Past. The research resulted in a demimondaine's boudoir vibe (rose prints and velvet trims) with accents of more sober Rive Droite propriety (black velvet and soutache trim).
There was a lot of black—enlivened by lots of pattern, naturally—in a collection that was overlong and not without its heavy-handed moments. There was also a splashy saffron cardigan with rhinestone trim, a relatively tame brushed-wool plaid coat for the fainter of heart, and some great boots. It will be hard to decide between the colorful over-the-knee style and Sui's amazingly chic challenge to the Ugg boot. Way to kick it, Anna.
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Michael Kors Fall 2009
Michael Kors knows how to take a theme and run with it. One season it's Ali MacGraw's 1970's; more recently it was Mad Men. But for Fall, it's not about a movie, or a TV show; it's about…real life. In his program notes, Kors riffed about "neo-classics," and on the runway there were clothes for corporate boardroom types, anchorwomen, and plenty of other gals for whom real life involves rocking a black fur sleeveless coat from time to time.Tailoring was a focus. As if to prove that he can sniff out a trend, the designer tossed in a few jackets of the sort that have been making the rounds this week—some short-sleeved with squared-off, tucked shoulders; others with cutouts around the lapels. But Kors was at his strongest when he was thinking sleek: elongating, stretch gabardine cigarette trousers; a pantsuit almost as narrow as the chalk stripes on its charcoal flannel; double-face peacoats and balmacaans.
In a nod to the prevailing mood, he skipped long dresses entirely, favoring knee-grazing, one-shoulder numbers in matte sequins. Kors also thumbed his nose at the global gods of finance, whipping up shredded fox jackets and coats in neon pink, caution orange, and acid green. Those may be pretty hard to rationalize on a need basis. But as this savvy designer knows, that will make a certain type of woman want one all the more.
NICOLE PHELPS
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Saturday, February 28, 2009
Premier Model Management Is Playing Mommy Dearest for London Fashion Week
MAKE-UP, photographers, stylists, design innovation, knackered editors and an army of leggy models: all things we associate with London Fashion Week. Safety isn't high on the list for most of us - but it is something Premier Model Management is taking very seriously this year.
They have created the Model Safety Pack - aimed at the agency's newest young models - to ensure their charges remain safe, secure and hit the ground running when attending the shows. The pack contains tips and contact details for safe travel in London, addresses and contact details for an array of emergencies, aswell as a loaned pay-as-you-go SIM card and handset.
"The Model Safety Pocket Pack is designed to make London Fashion Week safe and easy for our working models," Carole White, Premier's managing director, told VOGUE.COM. "With so many models working in London - and many coming from overseas for the first time - we felt we needed to create something for our models to help them keep safe and well during the busy week."
The girls were also supplied with a base in central London, nutritious meals and a 24 hour helpline manned by Premier staff to ensure their week went without a hitch.
LAUREN MILLIGAN
Friday, February 13, 2009
Fashion Week Get the Boot at Bryant Park
(NEW YORK) Although the CFDA and IMG Fashion are holding a press conference this afternoon, the fashion world is buzzing that the news has already broken. Starting in 2010, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week will no longer be held in Bryant Park, but in Lincoln Center. Bryant Park has been the hub of Fashion Week since 1993, interrupted only by a season-long stint at Chelsea Piers, but recently, its future as host has come into question after disputes with park management about lack of space and disruption of park activities. According to the New York Times, two designers who usually show in the Tents were told that the new space would be at Lincoln Center, although there will be no official confirmation until this afternoon. In total, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week draws about 100,000 people to the Tents each year, generating $466 million in visitor spending.
UPDATE: The reports were confirmed today, when Mayor Michael Bloomberg said in a press conference with CFDA president Diane Von Furstenberg and IMG Fashion senior vice president Fern Mallis that the shows would indeed be centered in Lincoln Center's Damrosch Park beginning in September 2010.
"The fashion industry is a vital part of our City's economy, providing more than 175,000 jobs and generating billions of dollars in wages for New Yorkers annually," said Mayor Bloomberg. "Ensuring the industry's long-term success and promoting Fashion Week - the industry's greatest showcase - is more important than ever as we work to retain and create jobs during these difficult times and diversify the City's economy. We were determined to work with the Council of Fashion Designers of America and IMG Fashion to identify a location for Fashion Week that would allow it to grow and thrive in New York City, and we could not have arrived at more ideal location than Damrosch Park at Lincoln Center."
http://www.fashionweekdaily.com
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2009: Feb 13-20, 2009
It is almost that time of year again that everyone who is anyone waits for twice a year, New York Fashion Week! Ah, you can just envision the flashbulbs, models, swag bags, and dirty looks. The dates are listed below for everyone to follow. However, you may notice that some designers are not showing as usual or even at all. One of StyleSTAR's personal favorites Betsey Johnson has pulled out. And she is the one the press is always lined to see. On the other hand some designers such as Oscar De La Renta have been blessed enough to show twice, once for the buyers and then again for the press. As usual look for me posing at the Tents.FRIDAY FEBRUARY 13, 2009
10 AM THE HEART TRUTH'S RED DRESS COLLECTION 2009
Tent
11 AM YIGAL AZROUËL
Promenade
1 PM DUCKIE BROWN
Salon
2 PM CHARLOTTE RONSON
Promenade
3 PM BCBGMAXAZRIA
Tent
6 PM NICOLE MILLER
Salon
7 PM THIS DAY/ARISE MAGAZINE: AFRICAN FASHION COLLECTIVE 2009
Promenade
8 PM ACADEMY OF ART UNIVERSITY
Tent
9 PM VENEXIANA
Salon
SATURDAY FEBRUARY 14, 2009
10 AM LACOSTE
Tent
11 AM GEORGES CHAKRA
Promenade
1 PM ANDY & DEBB
Salon
2 PM ADAM
Promenade
3 PM BARBIE™ RUNWAY SHOW
Tent
6 PM VERRIER
Salon
7 PM MONARCHY COLLECTION
Promenade
SUNDAY FEBRUARY 15, 2009
10 AM LELA ROSE
Salon
11 AM MARA HOFFMAN / NICHOLAS K / SERGIO DAVILA
Promenade
1 PM DKNY
711 Greenwich Street
2 PM HERVÉ LÉGER BY MAX AZRIA
Promenade
3 PM CALVIN KLEIN MEN’S COLLECTION
205 W. 39th Street
3 PM THUY
Salon
4 PM DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
Tent
5 PM Y-3
TBA
6 PM AKIKO OGAWA.
Salon
7 PM ERIN FETHERSTON
Promenade
8 PM MISS SIXTY
Tent
MONDAY FEBRUARY 16, 2009
9 AM FARAH ANGSANA
Salon
10 AM CAROLINA HERRERA
Tent
11 AM CARLOS MIELE
Promenade
Noon JILL STUART
TBA
1 PM TRACY REESE
Salon
2 PM DONNA KARAN NEW YORK
711 Greenwich Street
4 PM YEOHLEE
TBA
5 PM TONY COHEN
Salon
5 PM Z ZEGNA
TBA
6 PM TEREXOV
Promenade
7 PM WILLIAM RAST
Tent
TUESDAY FEBRUARY 17, 2009
9 AM CYNTHIA STEFFE
Salon
10 AM BADGLEY MISCHKA
Tent
11 AM MATTHEW WILLIAMSON
Promenade
1 PM PAMELLA ROLAND
Salon
2 PM DIESEL BLACK GOLD
Tent
3 PM DENNIS BASSO
Promenade
5 PM CHOCHENG
Salon
6 PM MAX AZRIA
Tent
7 PM TIBI
Promenade
WEDNESDAY FEBRUARY 18, 2009
9 AM J. MENDEL
Salon
10 AM NANETTE LEPORE
Promenade
11 AM MICHAEL KORS
Tent
Noon RICHARD CHAI
Salon
3 PM 3.1 PHILLIP LIM
Tent
4 PM ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH
Salon
6 PM MILLY BY MICHELLE SMITH
Promenade
7 PM ANNA SUI
Tent
THURSDAY FEBRUARY 19, 2009
10 AM TOMMY HILFIGER
Tent
11 AM BRIAN REYES
Promenade
1 PM REBECCA TAYLOR
Salon
3 PM PORTS 1961
Promenade
4 PM CALVIN KLEIN WOMEN’S COLLECTION
205 W. 39th Street
5 PM CALVIN KLEIN WOMEN’S COLLECTION
205 W. 39th Street
6 PM CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
Salon
7 PM CUSTO BARCELONA
Promenade
8 PM ZAC POSEN
Tent
FRIDAY FEBRUARY 20, 2009
9 AM PROJECT RUNWAY
Tent
10 AM RALPH LAUREN
275 Hudson Street
11 AM RALPH LAUREN
275 Hudson Street
Noon TADASHI SHOJI
Salon
http://www.mbfashionweek.com
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